More plainly, the Biennale is an international exposition of art. Each of the 77 participating countries has a pavilion or a garden, and they select one contemporary artist to represent the country. The US artist is Bruce Nauman, whose work has been displayed at the Tate Modern in London and the Whitney Museum of American Art in New York.
The PGC's role in the Biennale is a large and complex one. Because it houses all of the most important modern art in Venice and it positioned prominently on the Grand Canal, the PGC is a favorite site for pre-Biennale parties and functions. Everything will become more clear as I talk you through last week's events.
Monday, June 1: Pre-chaos Meeting
My first day of work at the PGC. After a normal day of work, the staff briefed all of the interns on the upcoming week of Biennale events. They basically just scared the shit out of us and told us we would be on our feet in high-heeled shoes and formal gowns and suits for 16+ hours everyday catering to the most important people in the art world. Keep in mind that Sunday was my training day and the first time I had ever set foot inside the PGC.
Tuesday, June 2: VIP Tour
The museum is not usually open Tuesdays, but we were open for Biennale stuff (including a rooftop-terrace breakfast for the Tate Modern director and a huge press conference for all of the Biennale artists). After work, Susan Davidson, a curator at the Guggenheim in NY, gave the interns a tour of the temporary exhibition she hung at the PGC called Gluts. The Gluts are assembled metal works by Robert Rauscenberg, a prominent American artist who died one year ago.
Susan was accompanied by RR's widow, son, granddaughter and his boyfriend (yes, his widow and his boyfriend). She decided to talk with us so we could best answer questions during our tours and guarding duties. It's not everyday (or every lifetime) that one gets a tour of a show from its curator and the family of the artist. I felt quite special and learned a lot. It was definitely a once-in-a-lifetime experience.
Wednesday, June 3: Guggenheim Foundation Gala
We had a huge gala at the PGC for the Solomon Guggenheim Foundation board members. Very rich and important art people flew to Venice from all over the world for a big shindig. My role in all of this was to pin my name badge to my formal dress and guard the galleries, protecting the artwork from wayward elbows and red wine.
Important people present included the directors of all the Guggenheim branches, directors of the Tate Modern in London, Museum of Contemporary Art in LA, and the Whitney Museum in NY (a bunch of prominent curators and art patrons were there too).
I have never seen such beautiful clothes, shoes and handbags in all of my life (aside from later in the week, that is). I was like all of the manakins in the windows of Dior, Versace, Gucci and Prada sprung to life and decended on the museum. I do love a man in a designer suit. And the women were all so graceful. I was jealous even though I was formally dressed as well. My feet still hurt from guarding the galleries last week in stilettos.
Thursday, June 4: US Pavilion Party
We had 1200 of the most boring people in the world in the garden Thursday night. Everything was set up beautifully, but the company was dry and the people were pompous and rude. To write about this party would be a waste of time. Skip to Friday for a good time.
Friday, June 5: UAE Pavilion Party
The work day Friday was totally normal and uneventful. As the sun set over the Grand Canal and the royals began arriving, however, things got quite festive quite quickly.
It was a spectacular scene. There were giant flower arrangements on all of the mirrored, elevated tables placed around our garden. White and red silk tents interspersed with strings of lanterns graced the courtyard. White leather chaises and ottomans were brought in for the guests to lounge on. The food looked and smelled wonderful, and they had a fully-stocked bar with everything from cognac to champagne.
Once the guests began arriving, the most amazing DJ started playing mashes of traditional music with contemporary hip hop and techno. I have never seen a royal family let loose before, but oh how they danced. There were over 800 people there, and they were all having the time of their lives. I wish I had been allowed to partake.
There are too many details to share here, but just know that the UAE royal family knows how to throw a good party. And they were all exceptionally appreciative and polite. Go, UAE.
Saturday, June 6: Catalogs, L'acqua Alta & Intern Party
Saturday I was working with Silvio, the PGC head librarian, and he sent me out to collect catalogs from the various pavilions for our archives. At first listen, this task sounds great: walking around, seeing art, meeting people, etc. But there are a few important things about me and Venice that you must consider:
1. I am spatially retarded, and I have been designated to trek to obscure corners of the city by myself. Not good.
2. Venice is a labyrinth of bridges, alleys and canals. It is very easy to get lost (see number one) and you quickly tire from all of the steps. Keep in mind that I have to lug scores of catalogs too.
3. When it rains anywhere in the Adriatic region, Venice floods. On this particular day, the majority of the streets on my route were flooded, leaving my legs soaking wet and aching from all the water aerobics. Dirty canal water up to your knees is not fun in any circumstance, let alone when you are carrying at least 40 pounds of catalogs.
Anyways, sigh, I ended up having an OK time, minus the water. I got lost probably 17 times, but I quickly noted and corrected all of my wrong turns. At the end of three hours, I had secured catalogs from the Montenegro, Georgia, Croatia, Taiwan, Morroco, Ireland and Northern Ireland pavilions. I was given the most beautiful poster from the artist at the Georgian pavilion, which I will take a picture of as soon as I charge my camera.
After I went home, changed my soggy, smelly jeans and ate lunch, I took my four tote bags of heavy books to the PGC and hung out in the intern lounge til they told me I could go home (two hours early, hooray!) I got back to my apartment, got cleaned up and went to a huge party down the Fondamenta for PGC interns past and present.
It was a great party, and we had a fabulous time unwinding from our crazy week. On our way out to bars from the Fondamenta, we discovered there was still high water in the streets, so we frolicked. (I will post the pictures of me pirouetting through the 2 feet of water in Piazza San Marco as soon as my friend Whitney sends them to me, haha). I will not continue on with details of our drunken debauchery, just know that we all had a damn good time and got home safely.
Sunday, June 7: Queen of Norway
The Queen of Norway arrived promptly at 9 a.m. Sunday morning with her posse of secret service men. The director of the PGC, Dr. Rylands, was giving her a tour before the museum opened to the public. After the seeing the UAE royal family, I expected the Queen to be dripping in diamonds and rubies and adorned with the finest Norwegian furs. She was, however, classically dressed in a Chanel suit, pumps and hat. She was very elegant, yet simple. She was also very kind and relaxed. I think if I was an old lady we could be friends.
Monday, June 8: Breakfast on the Terrace & Intern Party 2
I had a normal day at work. I was at the ticket office. Time flies when I work there, which is nice. After work a bunch of us interns went for drinks of the Fondamenta Zattere along the Grand Canal before going across the canal to Rachel's for a party. She had 20 of us over for pasta, salad, hors d'oeuvres and wine. At 4 a.m., after learning drinking songs, games and toasts in 4 different languages - I passed out on her fold-out couch. We had a great time. Everyone I work with is absolutely wonderful.
In conclusion, I had one hell of a week, filled with extraordinary happenings. I feel very lucky to be here in Venice and experience all the things that I have so far.
I join you now from just beyond Piazza San Marco, where I live. My roommate Kristen and I just made a banana chocolate cake, which smells delicious, by the way. I did laundry for the first time, and I'm generally enjoying my day off (aside from a tiny hangover). I hope you all are well, and I will talk to you soon. Cake is calling.
Cheers,
L
Everything sounds wonderful!!! I miss Italy and you!!
ReplyDeleteBANANA chocolate bread? You ate some?
ReplyDelete